Christmas customs surrounding the consumption of drinks differ by country. In France, rightly famed for its sparkling wines, it is virtually obligatory to drink champagne with the seasonal menu, while in the United Kingdom port is considered one of the favourite beverages at Christmas. In Alaska they knock back ice wine at this time of year and in Sweden the go-to beverage is Christmas beer. In Hungary, rich in wine regions and superb wines, there can be no question that the seasonal menu demands a quality local wine. We chatted with Antal Benesch, head winemaker of Veszprém Archdiocese Winery, about which drink best accompanies which Christmas dish.
“Fashionable trends are to be found in so many fields but perhaps Christmas is one area where the role of traditions and symbols remains particularly entrenched. This is equally evident in the choice of menu because each dish making its way onto the festive table has its own meaning,” explains Antal Benesch, head winemaker of Veszprém Archdiocese Winery.
The world of restaurants and cooking is not far from Antal because he launched his professional career in the hospitality sector. His family had their own restaurant where he also worked and he learnt from his mother that good food could mean such happiness that it was able to lift people out of their everyday difficulties. “I wanted to pass on this feeling but this time through wines, therefore I enrolled onto the University of Horticulture’s faculty of viticulture-oenology engineering and became a winemaker,” the young man says outlining his choice of career. As he puts it: there is even more need for breaking away from the noise, the stresses of everyday life, and for intimacy during the festive season. This can mean a meeting of good friends, a family get-together, when a fine wine becomes an important part of the communal moment.
But what do we eat and drink at Christmas? Fish, cabbage, poppyseeds-walnuts – so Antal Benesch lists the vital elements of the Christmas menu in Hungary. The head winemaker reckons these dishes are not only healthy, but they also have ancient, symbolic significance. In Christian culture the fish symbolizes Jesus Christ, but it is also closely associated with fasting. Many even today fast on 24 December, thus fish soup or breaded fish often finds its way onto the table on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. In folk tradition, fish scales represent riches, and the quick movement of the fish is a symbol of the speedy progress of the family in the New Year. But which wines best suit these dishes?
“Olaszrizling (Welschriesling or Italian Riesling) is the perfect companion to dishes made from fish, whether they be the classic breaded and marinated carp or seafish being served at the festive table. The Archdiocese Winery 2021 Olaszrizling comes from Mindszentkálla, where the terroir is volcanic, which is why our wines made from grapes harvested here are dominated in their taste by salty, mineral-rich, fruity and slightly bitter almond notes, which pair nicely with fish dishes,” the head winemaker says.
Stuffed cabbage is a traditional and virtually essential element of the seasonal menu. It is cooked in many different ways depending on region. Some wrap the meat in cabbage leaves and serve with tomato sauce, whereas elsewhere it is prepared with meatballs and sausage. There are plenty of folk traditions associated with the basic ingredient of stuffed cabbage, pork; according to tradition, the pig roots ahead, which means progress for the family in the coming year. To find out which wine best suits stuffed cabbage, we once again turn to Antal Benesch.
“Because the most important element of stuffed cabbage is pickled cabbage, I have no hesitation in recommending a white wine. It may sound slightly absurd since in general the saying is that only reds go with paprika dishes, but our 2021 Estate White wine (a blend of our Rajnai Rizling /Rhine Riesling/, Olaszrizling and Ottonel Muskotály /Muscat Ottonel/ wines) is the best choice for a perfectly prepared stuffed cabbage. It is characterized by salty, pleasant acids and a fruity bouquet, and this wine is perfectly suited to a sourish dish,” the expert explains.
Naturally, one cannot imagine the festive table without dessert. Poppyseed roll, Gerbeaud cake, gingerbread – just a few examples from the most popular classics. Cake ingredients also have their own special meaning: whereas walnuts were used to ward off evil intent, poppyseeds were symbols of wealth in folk tradition, so it is no surprise that both feature heavily in desserts served at Christmas.
Christmas is one of the most beautiful holidays in the year. At this time the family comes together and accordingly we make the best, most remarkable dishes – all sorts of things that are not served at other times of the year. And at the end of the evening, a magical dessert can be the crowning glory of the festive menu. Tokaj-Hegyalja is one of Hungary’s most amazing and special wine regions, thus I say: a fine Aszú can round off a truly glorious Christmas dinner. If Christmas Eve is finished with a chocolate dessert, then a good red wine is also an excellent choice, so I would recommend the Archdiocese Winery’s 2021 Red Cuvée, the bouquet of which is redolent of ripe fruits, that is, plum, sour cherry, blackberry notes, while in taste one discovers hints of chocolate, smoke and sweetish barrel spices.
